In that diagram the signal enters and exits the 4053, which is a CMOS circuit (not a physical connected switch) so that is not true bypass.
In my mind, anything that requires the power supply to be connected in order to complete a bypass signal path is not "true bypass".
That said, I use 4053 the switch signals and have no complaints. I would not sweat "true" anything - unless it's a client directive, these objects we make are ELECTRONICS.
I find each pass through a 4053 is roughly 100 ohms (it's a non-conventional rule of thumb I use, I've measured lower for sure) series resistance on the signal path, so the switches can get lossy if you're not planting any gain in the mix.
Thread for random DIY-related questions
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Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
If you're goal is an A/B comparison fixture, I would say a relay would be a better switch source.
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Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
Yeah I figured as such I’m reluctant to try relay bypass just because I would have no idea which kind(s) to get; in theory it makes perfect sense but I’m typically wary of electro-mechanical solutions due to wear & tear… granted a toggle switch is also electro-mechanical: guess I can’t really win on that front
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Re: Thread for random DIY-related questions
Relays should experience minimal wear and tear - unless you're switching something with DC on it - but yeah, it's basically just a switch. The real benefit is being able to throw multiples with a single command, or automate stuff (though relays switch slowly compared to CMOS) - CMOS can switch at audio rates.